Founded in the late 19th century as a silver-mining town, this classy destination boasts no less than four major ski resorts, and all are accessible for the price of a single ticket. There’s also free transportation among sister resorts. In contrast to newer Colorado ski areas such as Vail -- which were created in the mid-20th century to emulate Old World alpine ambience -- Aspen retains a generous portion of its original rustic character. Of course, it also offers sophisticated dining, entertainment and shopping, not to mention some of the best skiing around. Located about 220 miles from Denver, Aspen has long enjoyed a reputation as a playground of the rich and famous.
Snowmass
Snowmass is the main attraction for winter visitors traveling to Aspen. With more than 3,000 skiable acres,
300 inches of annual snowfall and a vertical drop that exceeds 4,400-feet, it’s easy to ski something different here every day and never get bored. Slopes are far less crowded than the ones you’ll find at Summit County resorts such as Vail and Breckenridge, but such magnificent solitude doesn’t come cheap. Aspen has never been known as a bargain-basement town. Lift tickets, lodging and dining tend to be pricey, but for those with a healthy budget, there’s nothing better than Aspen/Snowmass. Of course, if you do happen to grow bored with Snowmass’s varied terrain and pleasant conditions, you can always take your interchangeable lift pass and try a few runs at Aspen Highlands.
Aspen Highlands
Only three miles from downtown Aspen, Aspen Highlands is located on the road to Snowmass, and next door to Buttermilk. With “only”
714 skiable acres, and a vertical drop of about 3,600 feet, Aspen Highlands is considerably smaller than Snowmass, but it remains a favorite of loyal locals and return visitors alike. Exceptionally steep runs, varied terrain and generous opportunities for hair-raising tree skiing have contributed to Aspen Highlands’ reputation as a great place for expert skiers who enjoy a challenge but not a crowd. Snowboarders are welcome, and there are two snowboard parks and a pipe for their use. Aspen Highlands has what was once the longest run in Colorado, at three and a half miles long. Terrain is divided almost equally among beginner/intermediate and expert/advanced expert runs.
Buttermilk
This is Aspen’s teaching mountain. First opened in 1958 in response to the need for a family/beginner-friendly ski area in
Aspen, Buttermilk is a pleasant respite from the larger, more intimidating resorts that flank it. Although its 420 skiable acres seem scant in comparison to Snowmass’ 3,000 -- or even Aspen Highlands’ 714 -- most beginning skiers find the terrain more than adequate. There are two snowboard parks and 43 trails. The longest vertical drop is a respectable 2,030-feet. Annual snowfall averages 200 inches; about 100 inches less than the larger, more formidable resorts in the area, due to Buttermilk’s lower peak elevation of 9,900 feet, but still plenty of powder for fine skiing from mid-December through mid-April. Terrain, not surprisingly, leans heavily toward the beginner side, with only about a quarter of the resort’s acreage devoted to expert runs.
Ajax – Aspen Mountain
Located next door to Buttermilk, and on
the road to Snowmass, Aspen Mountain (nicknamed Ajax) has long enjoyed a reputation as a favorite winter playground of the rich and famous. Looming above the town of Aspen, this formidable mountain, with a peak elevation of more than 11,000 feet, and 675 skiable acres, offers challenges enough for skiers of virtually all skill levels, except beginners. Novices would be better advised to skid on over to Buttermilk; Ajax claims no beginner runs whatsoever, and only a third of its steep alpine runs are designated intermediate. That leaves a whopping two thirds of its impressive terrain to experts and advanced experts, and a respectable portion consists of steep and deep mogul runs. Ajax boasts the nation’s sole skiers-only terrain park, known as Tourtelotte. This unique park allows skiers to play among hits, rails and other features, as if they were baggy-pants-wearing snowboarders. Until this year, Ajax remained one of the last holdouts in the country against the inclusion
of snowboarders. But times have changed, and management recently relented in the face of shifting public tastes; namely the escalating popularity and acceptance of snowboarding. Snowboarders are now embraced at the resort. They were officially welcomed in April 2001 with a month-long Spring Jam. Ajax’s vertical drop is a more than respectable 3,267 feet, and the longest run is about three miles long. At its higher elevation, Ajax enjoys about 300 inches of snowfall per season, which runs from late November through early April. So, if you’re an accomplished skier and you secretly hope to bump into the glitterati, this should be your first destination while in Aspen. Aspen for Families
There are tons of things for adventurous families to do in Aspen and surrounding areas, and not all of them involve frozen water. For something completely different, why not consider
a side trip to the world’s largest outdoor natural hot springs pool? Located in Glenwood Springs, Hot Springs Lodge and Pool is open year round and offers comfortable (and affordable) lodging and a chance to swim or soak in a pool that’s more than two blocks long.Families may also wish to join one of the naturalist-guided snowshoe tours offered by the Aspen Center for Environmental study (ACES). ACES and the U.S. Forest Service have combined forces to provide free Fresh Tracks Nature Tours on gentle terrain at Snowmass and Buttermilk ski areas. Children must be at least 7 years old to participate, and intermediate skiing ability is required. Granted, these activities do involve frozen precipitation, but what else would you expect of the Rockies in winter? Culture, perhaps? No problem. Aspen features several art galleries, museums and an Opera House, providing plenty of non-snow related opportunities for entertainment and edification. Aspen
on a Budget
Well, maybe. Aspen’s generally pretty tough on a budget. Like the jewels adorning the local glitterati, prices are, well, pricey.But where there’s a will, there’s a way. Consider skiing in early or late season, when prices are reduced on everything from lift tickets to room rates. Aspen Mountain Lodge has some rooms as low as $89/night in the off seasons.Aspen for Lovers
Lovers can escape to numerous romantic getaways scattered throughout Aspen and the surrounding valleys. From the luxurious Victorian splendor of historic Hotel Jerome in downtown Aspen, to cozy cabins for two in the rustic Crystal River Valley, romantic mountain hideaways entice the amorous and adventurous alike. Hotel Jerome
Built as the splendor of Victorian style was reaching its peak,
Hotel Jerome is a modern getaway for lovers in the mood for luxury. Each of the downtown hotel’s 93 guest rooms and suites is decorated in individual style. Suites include Jacuzzi tubs and stereos (bring your own mood music). There’s a heated swimming pool and an elegantly appointed library for reading or relaxing with a drink. All this refinement doesn’t come cheap. Rates range from $525 for a deluxe king room to $2,050 for the Grand Parlor suite in high ski season (January through March). Complimentary ski slope and airport transfers provided.
Hotel Jerome
330 East Main St.
Aspen, Colorado 81611 Sidebar: Where to Ski
Beginners
This is a
no-brainer. Your best bet is clearly Buttermilk. Although it’s smaller than other resorts, Buttermilk was specifically designed with families and beginners in mind. And its facilities and programs deliver. Buttermilk’s slightly lower peak elevation may have the added benefit of providing respite for flatlanders acclimating to Aspen’s high altitudes; a potential nuisance for individuals prone to the discomforting symptoms (headache, shortness of breath, insomnia, etc.) of altitude sickness.Intermediates
These may be the most fortunate skiers of all. There’s simply no way to go wrong in Aspen. Any of Aspen’s resorts offer plenty of challenges and rewards for intermediate skiers. Those wishing to move up a bit might want to give the moguls at Aspen Mountain (Ajax) a try, or perhaps take a shot at the world’s only skier-only terrain park, Tourtelotte, also at Ajax.Experts
Hot
dog skiers are in their element at Aspen. From the VW bug-sized moguls at Ajax, to the steep tree skiing glades at Aspen Highlands, to the powder-filled bowls of the Cirque at Snowmass, experts may get tired skiing Aspen, but they’ll probably never get bored. Best bets are Aspen Mountain (Ajax), which features no beginning runs at all, and the challenging, varied terrain at Aspen Highlands. Avoid Buttermilk. Top |
